#GIBSON WRAPAROUND BRIDGE TV#

That is probably why the cheap, hand held tuners are 5 cents +/. That would mean a base line of 1 cent and +/- 50 1/100ths on either side.Īccording to Science, the human ear can only distinguish tonal difference to an accuracy of 5 cents.

Many times, I have read on these forums that you need a tuner that measures to 1/100th cent. It is a logarithmic term that refers to the incremental differential for sonic waves. Been there, done that.Įveryone who is overly concerned about intonation needs to Google the actual definition of a 'cent' as it relates to measuring sound. You can have a properly intonated guitar, and if you are using a death grip to play a guitar set up with 9's, on big frets, your going to sound sharp. And, I will second your comments about playing style/technique. Try your nut, before you replace the bridge. Now, the guitar stays in tune and has very decent intonation. He filed the slots to open them up, and topped off the nut, so that they were not so far down in the slots. It was grabbing them on every fretted note, and making them out of tune. He said my nut slots were too tight and too deep on every string. I sent my LP special to the same Luthier. I was ready to give up on the guitar, but a friend had recently fixed his Firebird, which he had been fighting for years. I tried the Gibson 'Lightning Bridge' which has a raised zig-zag strip on top of the bridge for compensation. Intonation was way off, especially at 12th and further up the neck. It has set screws at each end to push it further away from the posts for intonating the guitar. I have a 60's LP Special Double Cut VOS with the non compensated smooth top wraparound bridge. If you do decide to go down this route, ensure you get the correct thread type for your original posts as this means they will thread directly into the female anchors which makes this a DIY job and not a trip to the local 'tech! My DC Studio had 5/16' UNF thread (Imperial, sometimes referred to as 'US thread') which i belive is standard for these guitars. One point to note, the Tonepre locking posts are available in metric and imperial thread sizes, these are not interchangable. If you want to return the guitar to original spec, just remove the bridge and posts and replace the originals. This security must improve sustain as it really is a solid connection. They secure the bridge a lot better than the standard posts and old wraparound.

I have fitted the bridge though and it is a sold fit, mainly due to the locking posts. I'd love to tell you that it sustains like never before but, as the project is still a way off finishing i cannot. I have replaced the wraparound with a Tonepros AVT-II which came with Tonepros locking posts. My opinion is different to others, i'm not saying i'm correct and they are wrong, just what i'm comfortable with. I have passed on the wraparound bridge because i don't like them. Thanks! FYI I do have lots of parts that I am finally getting around to listing so keep an eye out.I have a '98 DC Studio project on the go now. Shipping will be $7 for priority mail in the US elsewhere contact me for a quote. I am including a couple of used Gibson height adjust posts, not sure how old they are as they didn't come with the bridge and I don't know if nickel or chrome, and unused recent studs that happened to fit. Otherwise, pretty nice shape with no cracks. There are grooves on the top from where the strings previously rested and that is unavoidable on these. Missing the two adjusting screws that would go in the back but those are not hard to find. Has expected wear and the normal grinding marks on the bottom along with the single line down the middle of the back that is some kind of molding mark.

#GIBSON WRAPAROUND BRIDGE TV#

This is a mid-1950s Gibson aluminum wraparound bridge tailpiece as used on the early 1955 Gold Tops (before they went to a separate bridge assembly), also used on the TV Jr etc.

Gibson wraparound bridge